Saniflo Microswitch Replacement: Which One Fits Your Model, and How to Fit It
Once you’ve confirmed the microswitch is behind your macerator’s start-stop problems, replacing it is one of the more straightforward Saniflo repairs — a direct swap of a single small part, rather than a full motor or unit replacement. The main thing to get right is choosing the correct switch for your specific model.
Matching the right switch to your unit
Because so much of the Saniflo and Sanivite range shares the same underlying pressure-switch mechanism, listings are split by model name mainly to match the correct fitting and connector rather than a fundamentally different part. Our range covers replacement microswitches for Sanibroyeur, Saniaccess, Saniwall, Sanipack, Sanispeed, Sanishower, Sanibest, Sanichasse, Saniplus, Sanivite, Sanislim, Sanipro, and Sanitop units, along with Grundfos- and Broysan-compatible versions.
Two exceptions to be aware of: the Sanishower Flat takes a more sensitive microswitch than the standard float-type switch used across the rest of the range, so don’t fit the standard part to that model. And the Sanicompact, Sanicubic, and Sanicom ranges use a completely different air pressure switch instead of this membrane-and-microswitch design — we don’t currently stock that part, so if that’s your model, check with us before ordering.
The most reliable way to find the right one is to check the model name printed on the unit itself (usually on a label on the front cover or inside the control box), and match that to the listing rather than guessing from the toilet or bathroom fitting it’s connected to — the same macerator model can be sold under slightly different branding depending on where it was bought.
Before you start
This is electrical work carried out close to a unit that handles waste water, so a couple of basic precautions matter:
Isolate the power first. Switch off at the fused spur or wall socket feeding the unit, and unplug it if it’s on a plug rather than hard-wired. Never work on the control box with the power live.
Isolate the water too. Turn off the water supply to any appliances feeding into the macerator (toilet, basin, shower) before opening the unit, so nothing drains into it while you’re working.
If you’re not confident working with basic electrics, stop here and call a plumber or qualified technician. The switch itself is a simple like-for-like swap, but it sits inside a control box wired to the mains, and water and electrics together are not something to guess at.
Fitting the replacement
With the power and water isolated:
1. Access the control box. On most models this means removing the outer cover of the unit (usually a few screws) to expose the motor and the small control box mounted on top of it, where the switch lives.
2. Note how the old switch is wired before removing it. Take a photo on your phone if it helps — the replacement needs to go back exactly the same way.
3. Disconnect and remove the old microswitch, then fit the new one in the same position, reconnecting the wiring exactly as it was.
4. Refit the cover, then restore the water supply first, and the power last. This order means if there’s a small leak from re-assembly, you’ll spot it before the unit is live.
5. Run a test flush and confirm the unit starts cleanly, runs through a full cycle, and switches off on its own once the chamber has cleared. If the same intermittent or stuck-on behaviour comes back straight away, the fault may be elsewhere (a stuck non-return valve or a genuine blockage are the next things worth checking) rather than the switch itself.
When to call it in
If you’ve isolated power and water and you’re still not comfortable opening the control box, or the unit is under warranty, it’s worth getting a Saniflo-experienced plumber to do the swap instead — the part cost is low either way, and it protects any warranty cover you still have on the unit.
Browse the full range of genuine and compatible microswitches, sorted by model, in our Saniflo Macerator Microswitch category.